The Evolution of Sichuan Cuisine in the Modern Era

Sichuan cuisine we know today has come into being through centuries of evolution. Borne from an amalgamation of ancient traditions, migrant influences, and new ingredients like chili peppers – including Mapo Tofu, Kung Pao Chicken, and Twice-Cooked Pork – its flavors and layers of complexity create unapologetically addictive dishes such as Mapo Tofu.

From bustling street food stalls to Michelin-star restaurants, this internationally popular cuisine has captured diners everywhere. But how did it all begin?

Origins

Sichuan cuisine has long been revered for its bold, unique flavors; however, that wasn’t always the case. Sichuan was once an open frontier that welcomed migration, and an amalgam of different culinary techniques and new ingredients ultimately resulted in its distinct style of cooking.

One such innovation was Pixian Douban, an earthy fermented chile paste which defines Sichuan cuisine and stands as its cornerstone. Its tart sweetness balanced the scorching heat found elsewhere in dishes later on.

Chili peppers were another key factor, though their arrival didn’t occur in Sichuan until around the middle of the 19th century. Before that, local chefs used ginger and Sichuan peppercorns to craft simple yet soul-satisfying fare such as Mapo tofu; its origin story suggests this dish can be traced to Chen Mapo who created an affordable stew of silken tofu, ground meat or pork, fermented chile bean paste, and hot chili oil that satisfied her hungry customers.

Migration

Sichuanese cuisine features bold flavors that defy easy description, such as twice cooked pork () which includes blanched pork belly cut into slices and stir fried with Pixian doubanjiang, scallions, earthy fermented broad beans, black fungus, dried tangerine peel and numerous chili peppers – fresh and ground — along with fish sauce. However, these distinct tastes were not always associated with Sichuan dishes until two huge trends in modern Chinese history took hold: 1)

First was migration. Between the Ming and Qing dynasties, Sichuan saw waves of migrants arrive in Sichuan with their unique cuisines and ingredients from across China and beyond, according to scholar Lan Yong at Southwest University. According to Lan Yong’s research at Southwest University, this cultural fusion combined with certain fiery New World ingredients led to what we now recognize as Sichuan cuisine – with the iconic condiment known as Pixian doubanjiang emerging out of a bean paste made with broad beans and salt that chili peppers were added slowly over time – giving birth to what many consider Sichuan cuisine’s essence today.

Influence

As early residents of Sichuan Basin relied heavily on hunting and gathering for sustenance, their culinary repertoire was fairly limited by what could easily be collected or killed. Archaeological findings indicate that roasting and boiling were used as primary cooking techniques with chili peppers used occasionally for an additional numbing sensation in the mouth.

A seminal text from this era called the Chronicles of Huayang describes people from Sichuan as both appreciating flavor and fond of pungent spices – characteristics which would come to define modern Sichuan cuisine today.

Sichuan cuisine experienced a tremendous surge of growth during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as chefs and restaurateurs competed to invent innovative cooking techniques and signature flavor profiles – leading to some of our beloved and delectable dishes like Mapo Tofu, Kung Pao Chicken and Twice-Cooked Pork being born! Thus began modern Sichuan cuisine’s explosive development into something unabashedly bold, complex, and undeniably addictive.

Innovation

Sichuan cuisine has evolved from its origins in an ancient basin into a global culinary institution over centuries, attesting to the power of tradition, migration and innovation in food culture. Relying on resourceful cooking techniques and diverse ingredients enables it to adapt to modern palates while staying true to its origins.

Ma Po Tofu (or Mapo Dou Fu) is an iconic dish synonymous with Sichuan cuisine and showcases its characteristic combination of tongue-numbing tingle and spicy heat. Although its exact roots remain unclear, chili peppers were first introduced during late Ming dynasty to drastically change its taste profile.

New York’s bustling Sichuan scene today features restaurants that reflect these innovations. At One Fulton Square, where Little Pepper and Spicy & Tasty once reigned supreme, three innovative Chinese eateries now serve modern takes on Sichuan food: Szechuan Mountain House, DaXi and Szechwan Absolute.